RSS Feed Hellkeeper.net

Last Updated: 10/04/2012 at 21:45

Current Project: Dunno.

Index of tutorials

# Natural lands

Translator's note: The tutorial is for Bot_40, and is translated from English. The effort was made to preserve the original style of the author, and there may be differences of shades with the original text, but the background is the same. It will familiarize you with the very personal style ... "Familiar" of Bot_40, I thank (and which I invite you to download maps, ca give you good ideas). Finally, note that the images and the corresponding comments are the original images of the tutorial, it is not mine, it is Bot_40 who speaks like a god Paint ;-)

## 1-Intro!

NDT: In general, you should know that the land BSP for UT99 require much planning and work than UT200X, and can not engage in a fishing expedition without ending up with something ugly and buggy. By cons, as the lighting and editing are the same as those of normal brush, you will realize quickly that this system of land UT99 is more flexible than its little brother. Ah yes, all the notes in italics and preceded by the word "NOW" (Translator's note) are notes and not Hellkeeper Bot_40.

Ok, very often (say pretty much everything the day), I see maps or screenshots that look like this:

It's horrible! It is not realistic, even from very far away! The last time you were out out (haha), you saw that the uneven ground were not made with angles a 45/90 degrees! Every time I see these angles of 45 ° or 90 I want to drive pencils into my eyes! It's a shit! In addition to the alignment of textures is rotten and this method is very high-Polys. This is because most people either do not know how to use the Land Builder Brush properly or are too lazy and prefer to use Edit Terra (Ze dirty program spewing these horrible angles of 45 and 90 degrees). A classic example would be CTF-ProjectX and ProjectX2. These are all solid two maps. ProjectX2 is one of the best existing CTF, but if you look at a critical eye, you see these everywhere right angles, and it's more horrible textures, ca makes you vomit (well not really, but it is very ugly).

In this tutorial, I want to give mappers a step-by-step to create lots drinking. I will not begin to tell that this is the only way to do it. Another popular technique is to use lots of cubes divided to make a huge cube and the mold (NDT: that is to say all this désintersecter once the field has the desired shape). This technique crushes mine by far regarding the Land atmospheric, with great cliffs on each side. It is this technique that is used in Operation Na Pali. But this technique is unusable for large outdoor with low hills and rounded mountains (what most people want to do using Terra Edit).

So if you want a terrifying and narrow canyon with steep paths, the technique explained in this tutorial is not the best (I would give the link on the other technique, but I completely zapped and I saw ).

One last note: this tutorial does not pretend to be a bible: you are not REQUIRED to follow step by step. Generally, once you know your self, you will want to do things in a different order. Perhaps you will discover techniques that will seem better or faster. This tutorial explains only how I do my land. This is the method I've experimented with the most success in recent years. And really, really finally this entire tutorial and all its contents are the property of Michael "Bot_40" Rippon, 2003. It is I who did it, it is mine. Do not you even plan to assign it or I send you explode Dede hand drill both knees.

So let's start, without loitering longer. For starters, know that I would use the Vertex-Editing intensely, and in 90% of cases, I would do in the 3D view. I do not use the views of front / side of when I land, and very rarely the top view. Given that there will certainly readers who know nothing about the peculiarities of the Vertex Editing in 3D, I will briefly explain the technique before starting to do my field.

## 2-Vertex Editing in 3D

You arrive before! That means you have not been deeply insulted by my anti-Terra Edit Delirium. First and foremost, I would create my field using the Field Builder Brush (if you can not find the button, it's one of those you never use).

When I created my field, I always use the Vertex Editing on the red brush to create the ground COMPLETELY, before the escape, at the very end. I find it easier to edit as a brush that has already been added / subtracted becomes impossible in the 3D view when you have Polys everywhere: there are always embarrass you.

While I am: I would use the brush ground as a subtractive brush. This should shock your logic if you use Edit Terra before, but it is slightly faster and that means you will not need to subtract the other cubes. Using an additive brush, we should work within a cube subtracted, and it is easier to use a subtractive cube since you'll have a black background so more mixed. Also, if you want to enlarge the field later, you will not have to change the cube: you can just create another field and connect it to the first ( Translator's note: this principle is used to create flexible sites, with such , 4096 modules aside, what is very practical. Moreover, the transition is very easy to make and invisible, which is not the case of land under UT2004 without a lot of work for the vertices of ground match those of another ).

BLABLA ENOUGH! Let's go. Give any shape your brush has red cube, TerrainBrush, whatever. It is only to lead us to Vertex Editing in 3D (what most people never tried I guess). Now select a vertex in the 3D view by clicking on it (no need to change viewport mode or anything like that), and position your camera exactly on the side, with the vertex selected right in the middle of the view.

NDT: it is convenient for this to pass the 3D view in full screen by clicking the bottom right of the editor (one who represents a square with an arrow ess aud another smaller square).
Good. Now, down ALT and both mouse buttons at the same time. Move the mouse up will move the vertex up and move it to the side budge the vertex through the 3D view. (S) Vertex always move exactly on the axes, so do not stress by asking you if it will not end up a mass with respect to the grid. On the following image, I moved the vertex up and to the left.

Now, rotate the 3D view to see the vertex of 90 ° on the side. If you have been here when I moved the Vertex, you would have seen to approach you.

Do the same. You can move the vertex up and down, and across the view. Note that if you move to the side, he now travels on a different axis. It's damn useful now that you know you move a vertex in three dimensions using only the 3D view. You'll never need to use the side views or front of your whole life if you do not want! The following image shows what happens when I move my mouse to the right.

One last picture to show you my beautiful vertex from a different angle so that can see how it moved you should train yourself some time to get used to. Enable Real Time Preview in the top view and the views of sides (AC is done by clicking on the little joystick on top of each view, NOT the small joystick in the toolbar, which is used to test the map) Vertex and watch your move in real time as you move it in 3D view.

Even when it is necessary that I speak to you soon-makes this bug. Sometimes you move the vertex and let go the ALT button. When you want to move the new vertex, the little red pointer (Translator's note: this is the pivot of the brush) will move, without shipping the vertex. It's just a silly bug in the editor. All you need do is reselect (you will not have to deselect the red brush, simply click again on the vertex). This bug seems to occur only on large lots. It is not really problematic, but this little confusingly if the vertices on which you stop Bossez sudden move.

Ok, I promise you that in the sequel, we will really make a field.

## 3-Create the form

Well, it's time to get started! To begin, right click on the field Builder Brush (this is the tool with small mountains). Give a height large enough, such 10240 (no, there is not a 0 too). This figure will give roughly the height between your floor and sides of the cube in Fake Backdrop, so if you give a value large enough, if someone shoots a rocket into the sky it will disappear before they exploded against " nothing. " ( NDT: Bot_40 exaggerate a bit here. On the one hand by that is 10,240 more than it should have a rocket to disappear, partly because that was like the UT2004 Volume Limitation, there are CloudZoneInfo whose job is to prevent projectiles from hitting the sky. A value equal to twice the height of your yard is more than sufficient ). Give the width and length dimensions of your yard that you want to have and add a little something. It is very important that you do the big enough, otherwise you may find yourself short of Vertices later, which would mean that you are totally stuck and you only have to start over at zero. A good strategy is to make a larger field of 1024 or 2048 units that you want to do in length AND width. It really is okay to end with unused space on the sides, it just means that your card has an additional polygon, which virtually nothing. Make sure your measurements are exact multiples of 256, it will make the BSP much, much cleaner. Never use, I mean NEVER, a number that would not be a multiple of 256. Do not even think.

The number in the "Width Segments" is the number of division of land. To understand, divide the width of your field by 256 and use that value. This will give the sides of segments 256 If you absolutely monstrous land, you can use segments of 512, but will require that your property is truly immense. I never needed segments 128, but remember that if you use, your property will be four times more polys and you will have four times as many vertices has edited.

Do exactly the same thing with "Segment Length". Click the Build button and you should have something like what I have below (may be larger or smaller. Mine is quite small, but this is just an example). I suggest you move up the field, so that the ground is exactly half full of the universe. This way, when you open your map, the camera took the middle appear and you will not need to look up and down. If you have already built things in your maps, align the bottom or you want the land is located, while foolishly.

At first glance, if you are accustomed to Terra Edit, you will feel that the land is upside down. But no. Remember that we will subtract this cube at the end. Finally, the four sides and top of the cube (which will not be a very long time cube), are surfaces Fake Backdrop. The bottom of the cube is the only thing that interests us, and that's the only thing that will actually be turned into land.

Note that you will probably have quite a few segments more than me on your land, because as I said above, this map is only a demonstration, and so I did not wanna spend for ages to do a huge lot just to show you two or three things. Well, sometimes when you make a really huge field, you see that awful grid and you have to carve into a masterpiece. It's always intimidating to start. You just have to force you to move to the next step, otherwise you will spend for ages to watch your flat brush without doing anything (blocking Mapper). I have already often experienced. ( Translator's note: Oh yeah, I also show little, you'll often go for ages to watch your brush without doing anything, discouraged. You just have to force yourself and it is straightforward ).

From now on, it's MY way to edit a field. The order may seem illogical to some, but for me it is perfectly reasonable. It is also good because it encourages you to plan your field, and plan in advance is always a good thing. But do not worry, you will have to improvise when even most of the time. You do not need to draw your entire map on paper before you tackle the construction, it suffices to provide roughly the available areas where you can walk. The next step is the most important of all, and that is that you can surpass 90 ° syndrome Terra Edit!

What you need to do is a vague outline of the layout of your yard. It has not the slightest need to be exact, and ca may very well be a simple mental picture, but you can not move forward if you do not have an idea of ​​the final result was obtained.

Once you have an idea, you should use the Vertex Editing in the top view to create the contours, the ground or turned into cliff on your property. This is one of the few times when I use the top view to edit the field. It is hard to explain, but if you look at the edges of all triangles in your view, you will be able to follow a curved path and smooth along these vertices, so that it traces the area or field meets cliff. ( Translator's note: um, it's even more difficult to explain in French ). Set up your grill in 64! It is very important because it will keep your BSP relatively clean (it will become rather messy later, so try to keep a grid as large as possible if you can).

Translator's note: This digression on the grid is even more important that unlike golf UT2003 and 2004, you CAN move your vertices on the sides, not just in height, to create overhangs. This created brush concave, like qu'UnrealED very moderately. Moreover, as the land of UT99, unlike lots of UT200X, are parts of BSP, they stand out, and being formed of triangles that will soon be deformed, they stand out quite badly. Keep a wide grid reduces the problems of HOM and keeping BSP hole angles less free but easier to manage for UnrealEd.

On the following image, the blue lines represent the outline that I guess. Scrawled in yellow part is what will be playable (wow, I'm a 1337 Uz3r of paint! ( NDT: I warned you. )). The green stuff is what will be the cliffs, and we can not walk on it. Inaccessible areas are not green, it's just to give an idea of what will be available and what will not be. Looking at the diagram you should be able to understand that I try to do a kind of valley making a turn a quarter turn. Moreover, also made ​​a field curve as possible and avoid the lines are too straight. If you turn right angles or angles of 45 ° between the blue lines while you read this tutorial, I Fl1ngu3rais! It is also very important that you avoid too steep cliffs: two segments do not align perfectly too, otherwise the base of your cliff / hill will be a perfectly straight line and it will be very ugly. Note that in my diagram, the lines are fairly randomly broken, but also relatively curves. Not too hard angles, while the grid set to 64.

Another little trick is not to overstretch the segments. If you look at my picture you will see that the triangles are vaguely the same size. If you really triangles larger or smaller, you ca complicate the task later will be less beautiful and ca.

The following is vitally important. You remember I told you earlier to a field larger than it should? If you look at the top of this picture, you see that blue line is from the edge of the brush as a segment. NEVER CA. I did it specifically to illustrate something later. It is very important that you leave at least two or three segments between the edge of your brush and your "blue line".

Also note that my blue line touches the edge down and left. This is an example to show you that you can connect multiple Brush Land. In general, you will not make that kind of thing, but it may be useful for example if you messed up your schedule and you need to add to your basic land, on the other side ( NDT: c ' Modularity is the principle of land which I mentioned earlier: make sure that line the edge of a field is the same as the line on the other side of the other field, and they will connect together perfectly ).

And in the same way that you kept the place between your blue line and the edge of your brush, make sure to have enough vertices in your blue lines. complicate things later if you thought it would take is a segment between the two lines, and there will be no variation in height at this location ( Translator's note: actually, you can do, but only specific cases, if you make a very narrow canyon between two steep cliffs, but the soil is actually very flat ). This layout is not really great. When you make your own, try to keep the imaginary blue lines farther apart from each other as my example (sorry, but it is I who have poorly planned).

The next step will allow us to immediately see the shape of our field. You can do this in two ways (or using both at once in some cases). Edit in Terra, you raised the vertices to the mountains. But often, if your property has many high zones, it is faster and easier to get the vertices of the playable area. So you need either to terminate all the vertices of the green zone (But NOT those on the blue line) or lower vertices of the yellow area (including the vertices that are ON THE BLUE LINE).

I will personally use the second solution space that most of my land will be raised, so as to leave the party or she is and the lower the playable area ( NDT: more like this, you will see both methods, and c, c ' is cool ). It does not really matter, it just allows to move vertices within a time ( NDT: important note, always use the method that will make you move as few vertices at a time, because when you have a number a change of polys, the editor will make you understand your pain while rowing powerfully ).

Below is a picture of what I got. Note that I did not embellish a broken foot mountains for now I am focusing on the first floor. You can already see that you have beautiful curves, much nicer than using Edit Terra. Try over using the 3D view to all your Editing Vertex as described above. This will allow you to better see what you are doing, and when you get used to, ca be much faster than using the lateral views.

Another point that I almost forgot: SAVE OFTEN! The error mentioned below is the only one I've met who crash the editor, after two years of Land Editing, and it's pretty easy to avoid. The real problem is that you can not cancel what you do, so if you merdez strongly, you can always reload your last backup. Most of the time, even when you can manually undo your changes.

The following is very important because it could save you a lot of tantrums: when you move a vertex along the brush (which should not happen often if you map itself), make sure it does not end not its movement on the line that connects to another vertex at the top of the brush. Look at the screenshots below. IF I had dropped the ALT leaving the vertex, UnrealEd was seated with a message "Not Enough Vertices" ( Translator's note: this error also occurs when you place two vertices exactly the same place: they confuse the two and while the engine tangle brushes, then plant ).

NOW: While I am, another problem happened to me with this kind of stupidity: If you select a vertex and the edge as you go up so it passes beyond the line that connects a vertex adjacent at the top of the brush, a new face will look appear: it is actually the face that connects the vertex at the top of the brush, but completely returned (the brush is a "loop" BSP which have quite of problems). AVOID AT ALL COSTS that. I had the stupidity to select the face, to Fake Backdrop and give the same texture as the rest of the sky, and the crash did not take long to arrive. This often will crash the game when you test the card also. I made a speech Bot_40:

Ah, also very important: never try to move the vertices that are right on the ground to the inside or outside the brush. It is better that the surface will be in Fake Backdrop is perfectly level. Vertices can move on with caution, but you should avoid, you will not take risks as well. To be clear, if you look at your property in top view, the edges must be perfectly straight, and do not weave inward or outward.

Once you have grossly move the vertices you down, the next step is to give the soil a bit of elevation and relief. My land will be rather flat, but you can make hills and all the usual honky-tonk. Again, everything you need for now, this is something very comprehensive, to give the variation in height. It would be terrible if it was flat. Note that I always have a grid of 64.

Look at the vertices on the following image, which represents the right corner of my brush. This is where the blue lines are almost at the edge of my property? Notice how the cliff is right on the ground. This not only makes the effect of "Edge Of The World" inevitable, but it also prevents me from moving these vertices to the inside or outside without any gun down. This is to avoid this that you must leave at least two or three segments between your blue line and the sidelines. ( Translator's note: My paper on this subject ).

For the rest of this tutorial, I would ignore this area simply because I'm too lazy to fix this problem. This would require all over again. Logically, if you plan well in advance your field, you will not have this problem.

Look at the top of this cliff, I'll turn it into a nice rounded mountain, but for now, it's just a terrible horror TerraEditasse (word)!

I will use the same technique when I traced the outline of the valley: I will use the top view to supplement my angles (Yes, I know, I used the top view so what if you like not, made me a trial). Actually, I lied at the beginning: at this stage of construction, I use a lot the viewport "TOP", but get used to the 3D viewport is a good idea because it will make the modeling of the ground much easier.

Now I'll just remove the other vertices to a coarse hill. I do this in the 3D view because I see a little how high I must have vertices for a smooth and natural terrain.

It's not good enough yet. Not smooth enough. If you look at the board was right, for example, you can see that it is perfectly right. By adjusting a few vertices horizontally, you can make it less angular. Be careful when even with vertices at the edge. If you "pull" of a brush, you can always bring it back manually with the top view. The next image shows what is left after a few changes. It's not outrageously different, but it looks significantly more curved and natural.

The opposite side of the valley is steeper. Even when trying to avoid what I did here:

This is the syndrome of World's Edge ( NDT: AH! I wondered where I had already seen this expression. So Bot_40 which is at the origin of this name. Remember it, because it is more than never seen the current explosion in the number of maps based on land poor ). If you were at the bottom of the cliff, you would see that the world stops just behind the cliff, as if there was nothing behind. This is exactly what will happen if you do not leave enough space around your yard as I said earlier. If anyone created such a land as this tutorial exists, it will have big problems.

That which is better: I moved the vertices so that the cliff behind the air has to come down gently to the summit (which will be the case in reality). It's not perfect. If I created a real map, I would do the same for the vertices that can see behind you, well aligned, but I'm too lazy to do it for this simple tutorial. This shows that if you leave enough room behind you will have additional vertices cliffs behind you, you will not need to touch. Let: since no one will see, it does not cause problems, and the BSP will be cleaner if you let them all flat.

Sometimes you'll get a "Vertex Corner" comes out like this picture. They can be quite hard to detect in UnrealEd because of the Wireframe view, but in the game, it would be unclean, and it really would be much more than this picture.

If you have any like that, move them until they stand out more too.

Let the ground more closely:

Yuck! It's really TerraEditeux! It is not smooth at all. It is now that you will be able to decrease the width of the grid. 64 sufficient to create the mountains, but when we need to address the ground, it must be something more soft and smooth, as smooth as possible. All it takes to do is edit the vertices in the same way that just now.

This is much better. The rendering is much more natural. It's time to make changes super hot! Select any texture in the browser and subtract the brush. No, we have not finished, this is only temporary. You must look around the angles of 45 ° or right angles. You? Look at this picture for example: if you look at polygons and Wireframes at the same time, you can easily find. There are several on the following image:

You must round the corners. It is better to use the 3D view to AC, but first, undo everything you've done until you have removed the brush. It should stay as you brush the red and has its angles change.

We still see the corners, but hey, there's a limit to the degree of smoothing we get little in the UT engine, and we have reached. You can remove the brush and find a new potential problems. On the following image, you can see that the terrain is much smoother than before:

As I think about it, try to avoid the "syndrome of the valley," which gives you frightful valleys angular as in the image below. If you use a grid of 32, you should be able to avoid that.

Wow, this part is finally over. Once you have a beautiful existing groundwater t you pay attention to it is smooth, beautiful and realistic as possible, you are ready to move on the next step.

## 4-Texturing your land

Ready for the plunge? First, select the texture of rock that you intend to use (look in the package of GenEarth UT, Rock group, but hey, there's nothing really exciting in it). Subtract your brush. You will see that your property is textured with the feet. If you have a plot of 2000 polys, the trick that follows will bring you a huge relief. Select all your faces and go to the alignment properties. Click in the order given on Align To Floor, Wall and Wall Panning Department.

Select a soil surface and right click => select => Adjacent Floor / Ceiling. Then apply the selected surfaces, the texture you want for the soil. Without deselecting your area, go to properties and make alignment Align To Floor (not to Wall above). Select one of the faces that will be Fake Backdrop, do Shift + I, and apply these faces has a temporary texture (I usually use the texture DaySkyB Package ShaneDay.utx, I do not know why I chose that filthy texture orange). Also select all the land surfaces and check the "Bright corners" of their properties, it will avoid the horrible black borders on the ground and the mountains. You should have something like the following picture (Mine is Dynamic Lighting mode, god knows what went through my head when I took the screen).

Note that the selected surfaces form a perfectly flat. Yet they are all counted as different faces. You can combine them into one by right clicking on your brush and subtracted by polygons => merge, then rebuildant. Once that's done, if you want to change the shape of your brush, you MUST MUST make polygons => Separate and rebuild, on pain of having a BSP error. Look at the following image: I have selected a polygon.

If I wrote this tutorial six months ago, I would have stopped here, but in the meantime, I found a fantastic technique to perfectly align the textures of rocks. It's a bit difficult to understand and most players could play the map without notice that you have not aligned the textures, but perfectionists like me ( NTD: and I ) would not fail to notice it, then read on to find better align your textures as anyone.

NOTE: I have not done field since I discovered this technique, so you might be the first ( Translator's note: this tutorial date 4 years ago when I translated, so sorry but too late , has already shown Bot_40 all there was a show with his map CTF-Stoneforts] [ ).

Look carefully at the image below. You will notice that the textures do not follow strictly the cliffs. The main reason is that Epic does not care of our mouth and decided not to put in proper alignment planar UnrealEd 2.0. If you align the sides of cliffs with Align To Floor, you will notice that they stretch upward. The reason is that Align Floor To apply textures as if they were projected from above. Wall Alignment Direction / Panning is crap, otherwise he would walk the same way that Align To Floor, but they preferred to spoil the fun for everyone. Look at the picture below, and you will see that the texture is repeated the horribly or she was not properly aligned on surfaces.

The only way to get rid of it is to use the Align To Floor, but it étirerait textures because the faces are too abrupt vertical. What you need to do is rotate the field 90 degrees so that the side of the cliff turns into soil. Select the brush-subtracted and rotate it. Here is a view in Wireframe for you to understand well:

Recompile the map. If you suffer from some form of vertigo, you should cancel and not bugging you with this because the movements of the camera will seem strange to you and you will not be long before he completely disoriented. You must select the surfaces that link a little close upward and downward. Here is a picture.

Now do To Align Floor.

Thin, this is disgusting! Normal: sometimes the texture is pointing in the wrong direction. Do it just turned 90 ° to correct the problem. It's a bit too small so we're at it, this is important: if you want to change the size of the texture, make sure you have checked "Relative" or you'll kill the alignment of textures.

Well, it's much prettier. Note that I have lined up that half of the cliff: the other half is not oriented horizontally, so we'll have to do separately. Rotate the brush 90 degrees using the top view and recompile. Select the faces that you had not taken the first time.

Align To Make Floor, rotate them 90 degrees (or not, depending on how you did the first time), and double their size by making sure "Relative" is checked. When you have done, put the brush in the normal position. If you had turned your brush in the direction of clockwise and then in the same direction in the top view, rotate it anticlockwise from the top view, then the same direction in the side view to give it a place. Rebuildez your map. You certainly notice these things:

Disaster! It's almost as ugly as it was before ca! No, there is no way to fix this, you will need to select the surfaces that you just line up (the second portion of your cliff surfaces), and use the tools to scroll the texture until it does to see more too. It's not perfect, but you do not have this kind of problems that turn your mountains or at 90 degrees, whereas before you had this stuff EVERYWHERE, so learn to live with. Just ignore that stuff and see how your texture is perfectly mapped onto the rest of your mountains. The following image shows what I got after having hacked a little alignment to make the problem less visible.

Guess what! It's over! For the record, try, if you are accustomed to Terra Edit, guess how many poly fact that land? In general, you can divide that number by 4 to get an idea of ​​our result. Simply because with Terra Edit segments typically measure 128 units. With this technique, you can do a better ground with segments twice as wide, and therefore four times fewer polygons. Here is a final screen with my little field "Stats FPS"

BOOM! 47 Polys. But it's not really the number of polygons of our results, because when you put a Skybox, the faces Fake Backdrop will not be calculated, which makes us less than three polys, 44 polys. That means you can make a field six times larger and stay below 250 polygons.

Well, I think I have shown all of what I knew about golf! But hey, I say sloppy in this tutorial ... three hours, so I would think certainly has other stuff has added over time. There are several things like concepts (how to land the original layout), small additions that will add life to your map (trees, rocks, sounds, small animals of all kinds for a finish mashed), and I must also put a link to the tutorial on lighting DavidM land. (NDT: DavidM, a German, was one of the most mappers and technically competent wedged for UT99. He has worked on lighting, whether natural lighting of a map, the cones of light, the lights red (something very important that, the red lights), and of course the lighting of the land).

## 5 - Final Notes and Tips

NDT: to understand the structure for less "original" of this tutorial, you should know that it has distributed based on five different pages. Part 5, the one you're about to read the tutorial contained no beach, but a link to this tutorial (still signed Bot_40). Do not be surprised if the author seems to say anything: in the original context, it was very expected.

Instead of adding things to the already existing tutorial (which would make it even more messy than it already is ( NDT: It can tell you )) I'll add links to new content here (if ever the mood takes me to write something on the land anyway).

The tutorial on lighting DavidM land : it is only the part dedicated to golf are great tutorial on lighting. You should read the rest because ca PWN, but I did put the link to the part that interests us most.

## Tutorial to beaches

I decided to make another part to this tutorial, nothing more than an example to show how the overhanging cliffs and beaches. To begin with, sorry about the size your pictures, but pictures Wireframes do not compress well as JPG, and if I compress even more, they become ugly (and yet they are already well compressed).

I'll create a small sandy beach. To start, I planned vaguely what I want with the top view:

I started up the vertices that form the cliff, but after making the outline, I was too lazy to lift all one by one. Look at the vertices circled in yellow, it would be cool to raise all at the same time instead of doing one by one?

Go Vertex Editing mode. Hold down Ctrl + Alt in the top view and draw a box around the vertices you want. You can not all of a sudden chopper, then once you have one up, down Ctrl + Alt + Shift and draw boxes around the other vertices remaining. Be careful not to click on the brush, or you lose your selection (crappy old bug).

In the 3D view, press the Ctrl key and lift the vertices selected by pressing both mouse buttons and moving it upwards. The only interest of this technique is to reduce the time spent moving a single vertex ( Translator's note: this does not look anything like that, but those who have had the great joy of experiencing UnrealEd 1.0 know the Vertex Editing no dedicated tool is an invitation to suicide, and the inability to select more than one vertex is normally one of the biggest frustrations that a human can know in his life ).

Now let's create an overhanging cliff. It is VITAL that you do not spend at this stage before raising the vertices of the cliff, not even a little bit, otherwise, your vertices will overlap, merge and crash the editor. Once the vertices are no longer at the same height, you can do without taking risks. You can see that the yellow line represents the base of my cliff, and the blue line represents the peak (in reality it is roughly half the level seen that I will raise around after the vertices). Note that the blue line and the young line overlap in the top view. If you try it before you change the height of your vertices, you would have crashed the publisher directly.

I finished the cliff (the overhang is on the right). Now I have to arrange for the sand of the beach is no longer flat.

Think: when the sea rolls against the sand, it pushes the sand that is inside of our creek, so I made a small contour in the top view to reflect this phenomenon (ca make easier the creation of a smooth beach). Note the importance of logic when you land. You must think of everything so that AC does not become anything. It would be ridiculous to have a spring and a stream on top of a cliff, it should flow to the foot (Too bad, but people continue to crash.) Anyway, I drifted. Let us return to our beach.

Well, now I'll make tons of Vertex Editing to finish the beach. A beach is something difficult to do because the sand is imperative to look smooth and curved, otherwise your whole effect is missed. As you can imagine, I've spent for ages has to make convincing. It looks a filthy mess, but that you will wander in the 3D view is quite smooth. In fact, I needed to move the gate 32 here, although I use 64 for most other stages (even after torturing the ground like that, I still have not error BSP, I myself am impressed).

The terrain is made, what remains to do is texture (and the lighting of course). The texture of the following screenshots is not one I'll use, I use it only to show how a button Align To Wall it sucks, and how you MUST rotate the field and use the method of Align To Floor .

After being shamefully stole a rock texture of UT2003 (UT99 of those are really too zero) and have it aligned properly, here is the result. It uses a lot of polys, but even with all these horrors BSP, the number of nodes is low enough, and anyway, in play, you could not go in the water, so the poly count would not above 130 to the ground (leaving 120 polys for buildings and other props).

In addition, thanks to the shape of my range, when I add a 2d sheet to the sea, the way in which the water sinks into the creek is pretty class (image taken at stake with the lighting).

Another image. I did not break the legs to do a Skybox, so good luck to make a clean transition between water and sky (if possible).

Finished. Oh, you would maybe download the map as an example to check by yourself. The usual stuff applies: no right to use this map as the basis for another level, to make an operating business and the whole mess. I have a vague idea to make a good transition Skybox => Wed, but I'm too lazy to create a heaven. If someone comes to do something that works, please let me know.

NDT: About a year after writing this tutorial, a map, a perfect transition appeared on NaliCity, from the hand of ... And yes, Bot_40. CTF-Stoneforts] [has a very realistic transition: the sky is made ​​of a bottom face with a water texture. The other faces of the Skybox are black. A dome shaped leaves with 2D texture usual scrolling cloud is illuminated by a few well placed lights. The dome hits the water near the Skybox, which gives a very realistic horizon. That's it for us. Thank you for reading. You can access the original tutorial by going to the remains of the site Bot_40 .

2005-2008, by Hellkeeper .

Valid XHTML 1.1 CSS 2.1

# Original text

Contribute a better translation